Visiting charming Castelli Romani

15th of August is a special day in Italy. Italians call it the Ferragosto and it is a holiday all throughout the country. And on this day, Cart and I decided to take the day off to visit Castelli Romani.

Nemi

Literally translated, Castelli Romani means Castles of Rome. Over here, there are a group of towns and the area is unique for its volcanic crater. I was excited to explore the area after the trip to Bracciano where coincidentally, Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes got married. But first, Cart and I needed to fill our engines.

We stopped by this quaint little place called Trattoria Dei Cacciatori. This place was special to Cart because his family likes eating there and it was famous for its game.

Trattoria Dei Cacciatori

The place was really crowded. We were very lucky to have an empty table. As we sat down, I looked around, there were many families having a meal together.

Having a meal in a trattoria is very interesting. Its a small family owned place where the foods served are different every day according to the season. How it works here is that the cameriere will verbally list to you what they are serving and you choose among the list. I quite like this method actually because there is no need to boggle the head with a menu. Just give me my choices and I choose one. Very simple!

We started with this pasta with funghi and romano cheese.

Trattoria Dei Cacciatori
I will box anyone who pronounces this as funn-ghaii

Cart enjoyed his pasta very much since he’s always iffy about pasta being al dente. I like how fresh tasting the mushrooms were.

Later we had a side dish of Melanzane alla Parmigiana which I dare say is the best one that I’ve ever had. It was so soft and tasty that I gobbled it up and forgot to take a picture of it!

We ended our meal with tiramisu. The original recipe should not have alcohol in them which makes Cart wonder why there were so many restaurants that uses them in tiramisu.

Trattoria Dei Cacciatori

In any case, one bite and I was in heaven … mmmm… it was orgasmic! I can has moar??

By the end of the meal, both Cart and I were so stuffed that we felt sleepy. And we decided to take a walk around the area. Unfortunately, being summer, it was still uncomfortably warm and I felt sticky and didn’t feel like taking a lot of pictures. Sometimes I wonder if I’ve lost my tolerance to the Singapore heat. I hope that I’d be fine when I return back to Singapore in December.

Driving through Nemi
Notice that we drive on the right?

We then decided to drive through a town called Nemi which was nearby. Nemi is special because of the lake near it.

Nemi Strawberries

Because of the volcanic craters, Nemi is also famous for its unique strawberries. The first time I encountered it, I was curious because it was so tiny! Regardless, it was sweet and ripe and really good in my gelato!

We stopped a while by the roadside to take a look at the beautiful lake in front of us. It was really a sight to behold.

Nemi

Its really gorgeous. The blue of the lake, coupled with the gentle breeze made it feel so tranquil and serene. People living around this area are so lucky!

In the distance, I could spot out a yacht going by.

Nemi

My gosh, how nice it was to just go sailing and enjoy the breeze.

I also saw something in the air. Was it parachuting? Parasailing? Para-para sakura?

Nemi

Regardless of what it was, it looked like a lot of fun. Gosh! I wanna do water sports! Its been such a long time. The last time that I did something like that was in Thailand with Juli and Hema some years back.

I hope that there is something like that in Italy too and hopefully, doesn’t cost an arm and a leg.

In any case, as we approached the town of Nemi, it was crowded! Cart couldn’t find parking anywhere! There was no parking even some kilometers away from the town. Oh my gosh. Apparently, this was THE place to be during Ferragosto.

Nemi

Reluctantly, we had to leave Nemi. Maybe we’ll be here again another day.

Its so gothic in Quartiere Coppede

Recently Cart and I had a walk in a little place in Rome called Quartiere Coppede.

It is an interesting place filled with gothic looking buildings.

Quartiere Coppede

At first glance, I thought that the area was a palatial building judging by the style. It looked as if it was built during the dark ages, opulent and thick styled decorations all around the angular building. I could even imagine several guardsmen on horses trotting through.

Thief : The Dark Project would totally be at home here.

Quartiere Coppede

Surprisingly, the buildings were constructed in the 1920s which is relatively quite modern compared to many of the builds in Central Rome.

Turns out that the designer of the building, Gino Coppede, whom had an eccentric and over the top style, wanted to have something unique which certainly reflects on his last architecture.

Check out this building below, the curved entrance looks as if it was going to draw you in. It was actually a little bit spooky.

Quartiere Coppede

It was then that Cart told me that we were in the same location where Dario Argento filmed his horror movie, Inferno. We were in the same place where a movie was filmed. Cool!

Looking through a couple of youtube videos, it looked really B-Grade horror though. Which is not so bad for me since I actually like shows like Tales from the Crypt.

Quartiere Coppede

By the way, Dario Argento is an Italian film director who is well known for his influence in horror films. One of the films that he produced is Suspiria, which is voted one of the top scariest movies of all time.

Growing up, horror movies was a staple for me. There was a time when my family and friends would have a little gathering watching movies like Sundel Bolong with the queen of horror, Suzanna.

Nowadays I dont have the strength to watch horror shows anymore though ever since watching the Japanese version of the Ring and The Grudge. Because of that, I couldn’t sleep for about 3 days. Yeah, I’m weak, I know

Anyway, I’m actually feeling a little queasy right now so I’ll get back to Quartiere Coppede.

Quartiere Coppede

Regardless of how gothic that the area looked like, I think that its a rather charming place for a photoshoot. I can imagine a bridal photoshoot going on here already. Would be very lovely, don’t you think?

Quartiere Coppede

I wish I was a good photographer

And to end this post, I’ll put a picture which is completely unrelated

Villa Borghese

A very pretty sunset at Villa Borghese

Fasting in Rome

Yesterday, Cart and I completed the first day of Ramadan successfully. Its a little bit more challenging for me this year, since sunset is about an hour later compared to Singapore.

Also it is the first time that I’m not breaking fast with my family.

While it used to be that I’d try my best to get home, help my mum in the kitchen, listening to the sermon on the radio followed by this Arabic Songs while waiting for sunset and then have a meal together with the family. It feels festive and lively with the six of us at the table.

[audio:arabicsong.mp3]

The dynamics is different this time since its only Cart and me. The radio is quiet since there isnt anything remotely resembling the program that I used to listen to. And since radio online streaming has been suspended, there really is no hope for Singaporeans overseas like me to hear it anymore.

Also we are breaking fast with Italian food! This is very strange for me.

Anyway, a few blog updates in the following weeks – here is small sneak peek on whats to come

Sneak Peek

Sidenote : Since so many are asking, yes Cart and I are coming back to Singapore in December

The search for Ewan Mcgregor in Castel Sant Angelo

August is the warmest periods in Rome. With temperatures soaring to almost 40 degrees celcius, the norm for many Romans are to head off for vacation. But at the same time there are a couple of events going about called the Estate Romana. And though it was a balmy evening last week, I really enjoyed myself exploring the passageways at Castel Sant Angelo with Cart and his friends.

Rinaz at Castel Sant Angelo

Castel Sant Angelo is a fortress filled with weaponry. There is a long connecting passageway from here to Saint Peter’s Square. Cart tells me that the pope could run to it for protection from enemies the during times of emergencies such as the war.

But with Angels and Demons fresh in my head, I was on a personal quest to find the insanely hensem Camerlengo Ewan Mcgregor.

There was already a crowd building up at the entrance of Castel Sant Angelo, but after queuing up for a while, we finally headed towards the passageway. I was excited. Initially I wanted to take a video of the exploration ala tv-documentary style. But it was impossible as it was really quite dark inside. Ahem. One would have thought to install some lights inside with the budget that they had.

Rinaz at Castel Sant Angelo

And yet, it was rather interesting walking through the passageway. It was quite easy to imagine oneself as royalty during the 18th century getting through the areas. Just try to ignore the throngs of other people passing through, taking pictures and whatnots

Rinaz at Castel Sant Angelo

The first part of the passageway was sheltered and quite dark and the only source of illumination was from the lights outside. Do be careful when you’re here!

After a short walk, we reached the open part of the passageway. And I was a little surprised. What the movie doesn’t explain is that there are housing really close by the passageways. It was so close that I can peek through the window and see what the occupants are having for dinner. I wonder if they feel intruded with so many gawking people looking in.

Rinaz at Castel Sant Angelo

Above is a picture of a house that got destroyed after the antimatter bomb exploded. And then, I quickly looked around. This must be the spot where the assassin climbs out of the passageway into the streets below.

Rinaz at Castel Sant Angelo

It looked eerily similar. The sights were the same, the streets was the same … but where are you Ewan Mcgregor? And are you sure that your assassin would be able to climb out of the passageway undetected? It’s always crowded with people here.

Rinaz at Castel Sant Angelo

Anyway, a bit more walking and we reached as far as we could go at the passageway. Any further, we’d be chided by that dude sitting there in the corner. But what a shame though. I’m really curious to know how it was like walking all the way to Piazza San Pietro.

Rinaz at Castel Sant Angelo

We turned back and returned to Castel Sant Angelo. When we reached there, there were a number of buskers performing.

Rinaz at Castel Sant Angelo

We say a number of acts, such as tapdancing ladies, a jazz singer, some comedian guy who wasnt really all that funny. And this fire eating act. This guy is probably praying that he doesnt burn his luxurious hair.

We then walked down below to see the prisons. Interestingly, the temperature got cooler as we went deeper below. It was like a natural air conditioning.

Rinaz at Castel Sant Angelo

What was interesting about the prison is that the entry was so tiny that I had to bend down just to get in. This was rather puzzling to me as Europeans are rather large size. Alessandro, Cart’s friend postulated that the doors were small possibly as to make it easier to defend should there be fights happening.

Rinaz at Castel Sant Angelo

I do wonder how really tall people get in and out of these.

We then reached a room where there were many jars such as these although I’m not too certain what the function of these barrels are? Are they toilets? Where the 40 thieves hid to assassinate Ali Baba? Alessandro thinks that they are used to store grains and food.

Rinaz at Castel Sant Angelo

At length, we headed up to the top of Castel Sant Angelo. It was nice and breezy here and you could see heaps of monuments around. San Pietro at the distance, the Vittorio Emmanuele II in the corner, the night scenes and lights outside – looking at all the sights makes me understand why Rome is dubbed the eternal city.

Rinaz at Castel Sant Angelo

And here is an angel making shish kebab.

Rinaz at Castel Sant Angelo

I’m kidding!

The angel statue was conceived when Pope Gregory I saw the Archangel Michael appearing and putting the sword back into the scabbard. And it was prophesied that it was the end of the pestilence.

And that marks the end of our exploration. I had such a lovely evening roaming around the different areas in Castel Sant Angelo. But unfortunately for my feet, it was screaming out in pain from all the vigorous walking.

Rinaz at Castel Sant Angelo

But it was worth it, even if I didn’t get to see Ewan Mcgregor. Where are you Obi Wan? I hope that we shall meet … one day

Celebrating the Singapore National Day in Rome

It was probably my first time spending National Day out of Singapore.

Rinaz camwhoring with a handmade Singapore flag

What I thought was going to be a solo camwhoring session with a homemade flag at Gianicolo, turned out to be a mini Singaporeans meet in Rome!

A few days ago, I received an email from a Singaporean lady. She said that she was going to spend some time in Rome with her girlfriend and she invited for us to meet. It was a very curious email. I hesitated for a while but in the end, what harm would it do?

I invited Lynn, the other Singaporean besides me to join us and we decided to take them around the interesting sights of Trastevere and settled for a pizza dinner at a place called Pizzeria Ai Marmi in Trastevere.

Although initially we were apprehensive, when we finally chatted with Rahimah and Eng Nai, any feelings of unease dissolved immediately. They were both so jovial and funny! They loved to joke around and we both relaxed immediately.

Lynn and Eng Nai - Singaporeans meet in Rome, 9 August 2009

This is Eng Nai and Lynn. I quite like how Lynn looks like in this picture.

Rinaz and Rahimah - Singaporeans meet in Rome, 9 August 2009

And this is me and Rahimah. The both of us even wear glasses! For some reason, she reminds me of my aunt, Mak Busu.

Don’t you think that its very coincidental that Rahimah and Eng Nai were Malay and Chinese? Suddenly they claim that Lynn and I were going to be their foster daughters. Personally for me, Rahimah looks too young for that role though

We found out that both Rahimah and Eng Nai have been living in Hamburg, Germany for many years. They were both married to Germans and have migrated there since then.

We chatted over a lot of different things – like how it was trying to integrate into the different culture, growing curry plants and lemongrass during the winter. Rahimah tells me that, unlike in Rome, there was a large network of Singaporeans in Hamburg and they would meet regularly for mahjong!

Pizzeria Ai Marmi
We also talked about smocked provola – knitted cheese

Rahimah also told me of this amusing story of how her German husband used to be so shy when he first donned the sarong, but is now so comfortable wearing it that he wears it practically all the time.

How to wear a Sarong
Picture credit to Wottoncool

That is so cool!

It was fascinating to listen to their point of views about having a large support of friends. But it wasn’t like that when they were first in Germany some 15 – 30 years ago. Social networking is so much easier with the internet. Speaking to them though, makes me feel more motivated to try to explore more places. If two aunties could do it, so can I!

We had such a lovely time that the next day on National day itself, we decided to meet again. This time around, we met and showed them around beautiful Gianicolo – you could see heaps of monuments from up here.

Singaporeans meet in Rome, 9 August 2009
Singaporean meet in Rome with my *ahem* homemade Singapore flag

We then headed to the city centre. There were plentiful of interesting sights to see along the way. Like buskers.

Buskers in Trastevere

Since it was summer, there were a number of buskers around. And remind me to make an image stabilizer because night shots are pretty bad for me … I wish I had more stable hands

Trinità dei Monti

I’ve always been curious to know what was on top of the Spanish Steps. And I finally knew. It was the Trinità dei Monti. It was interesting to me as it had a sundial on the right hand side to tell the time. But since it was night time, a regular clock will have to do for now

Obelisk
For some reason, this reminds me of the Rockefeller Center Ice Rink. People just glided by

Eventually we reached a little restaurant near Piazza Navona where we had a good conversation over dinner.

Gnocchi
Gnocchi! One of my favourite things to eat!

Creme Caramel
Creme Caramel! I loves!

Suddenly I heard Francesco trying to teach Eng Nai on how to make pasta.

Turns out that Eng Nai was a cooking teacher. And she knows her stuff! And being Chinese gives her precedence since noodles are created in China. I was extremely amused by the entire conversation.

But one characteristics of Italians that I admire is how passionate they are and gracious they are at sharing their knowledge.

Unfortunately, the evening ended too soon and we had to say our good nights.

Regardless, I really enjoyed the company. I am really glad that we said yes to the meet! Thank you for the every lovely company ladies. I really enjoyed our time together and I hope that we will meet again, be it in Rome or in Hamburg

A day at Piazza San Pietro

August marks one of the most warmest period in Italy. Cart warned me about temperatures soaring to about 40 degrees Celsius. Madness! With this comes a sort of tradition in Rome for its inhabitants to go on vacation during these times to find respite.

One of the popular destinations are the beach. Italians seem to love to tan! And you’d see loads of brown-skin Italians going by. But I still can’t get used to seeing Caucasians as dark as or even darker than I am.

Rinaz at the Sports Center in Roma 12 Italy

It’s funny how when in the first three months, I don’t feel like going out because of the cold, nowadays I’d just hide away at home from the scorching heat. Hence, its a great time for some backdated posts! And today, lets explore Saint Peter’s Square or also known as Piazza San Pietro.

Piazza San Pietro

When we hosted Jerrick in March, we decided to head over to Piazza San Pietro on a Sunday afternoon. Although I’ve already been here, it still amazes me at how large and opulent the place was.

Piazza San Pietro

It makes me wonder, how on earth was this build constructed? Considering that when it was designed in the late 1600s, building technology was not so advanced. Just carrying the sheer amount of marble alone on a horse and carriage is a Herculean feat.

Piazza San Pietro

I spotted a couple of Swiss Guards outside the build to protect the Pope.

Swiss Guards at Piazza San Pietro

Cart tells me an interesting information about Swiss Guards – it was a requirement for them to be Swiss, Catholic and between 19 to 30 years old. But nowadays, I suppose that their function is more as a decorational tradition since the pope has another set of bodyguards. I even saw a couple of tourists trying to persuade the Swiss Guards to pose and take pictures with them. You cant do that!

Entering San Pietro requires a number of rules to be fulfilled. One of them being that the visitor must be decently dressed. Not such a problem for me since I was all bundled up in the semi winter weather.

Piazza San Pietro

There was also a queue that you had to get in where they will do a metal detector check and x-ray bag checks. I was unfortunately carrying a small bottle of tabasco sauce that day and the guard was looking at the screen and then me quizzedly.

Luckily for me, I passed through. Phew!

Piazza San Pietro

I guess it was rather fortunate for us to go to San Pietro on a Sunday since there was a mass. I’ve never seen a mass at San Pietro before.

Piazza San Pietro

If it was opulent outside, the inside was extremely grand to me. Everywhere you walk, there were always be something to see – be it a fresco or a decoration. One big mistake that many tourists do is that they just walk through quickly. Slow down and really take a look at these crafts. Cart tells me that San Pietro is never completed anyway, as in the build is always ever expanding.

Piazza San Pietro

Piazza San Pietro

Similar to the Santa Sabina Church that Cart and I visited in Circo Massimo, there were tombs dedicated to the popes in San Pietro. To be honest, I find it a little bit creepy.

I finally saw a working confessional booth

Piazza San Pietro

It probably is not such a big deal. But the only ones that I’ve seen are the ones from television. In any case, we reached the area where the mass was.

Piazza San Pietro

It was cordoned with a velvet rope. I wanted to go in and take a closer look but Cart doesn’t seem to be comfortable with the idea since the three of us weren’t Catholics. So we looked from afar. I couldn’t see anything.

At length, there were a couple of men in black suits cordoning us as the mass was going to do a procession. I quickly readied my camera.

Okay, it wasn’t that long, but it was still rather interesting to see. Cart tells me that the procession was according to age, youngest first and the eldest are at the back.

All in all, it was a pretty cool day. I quite enjoyed myself 🙂

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Did I just eat the worst pizza in Rome?

I love love love pizza.

Its probably one of the things that I could eat (in moderation of course) on a regular basis without getting sick of it. In Italy, there are many variations of pizza but for now, I’ll share with you two types of pizza :

This is a Pizza Tonda.

Rinaz trademark pose with pizza at La Camiceria

A Tonda is a round, personal sized pizza. This particular pizza that I had at La Camiceria is a Roman styled pizza which is caracterised by their thin crispy crust. Its definitely my favourite style of pizza.

Pizza at La Poeta
Check out the size of the fork with the size of the pizza

While this pizza at Dar Poeta is a Napolitana style pizza where the outer crust is thick, but gets thinner to the middle. Cart says that Napolitana style is the ultimate style of pizza, but I still much prefer my crust thin and crispy.

As you’ve noticed, the portions are pretty huge but this is the standard personal size. Many a times I’d just ask for a box to take away because its hard for me to finish it at one go.

What’s amazing is that I’ve seen tiny Italian kids who could eat the entire thing.

But if a round pizza could be too much, there is another type of pizza called the Pizza Al Taglio

Pizza Al Taglio Eligio

Pizza Al Taglio is a range of pizza that you can choose. You ask the server the type of pizza you want and ask her to cut accordingly as to how much you want it to be and she’ll warm it up in the oven. You pay according to the weight of your pizza.

Pizza Al Taglio Eligio

Eligio is my favourite place to have Pizza Al Taglio. Though the place is like a hole in the wall, taste wise, I think its fantastic. It was love at first bite – the crispy dough, the toppings. Just delicious.

To me Italy and Pizza goes very well together. Its impossible for an Italian to make bad pizza right? After all, its just in their birthright.

Its like eating Tom Yum in Thailand, and eating Soto Ayam in Indonesia, Sushi in Japan … food just tastes better in their country of origin.

Or so I thought.

Cart and I were at Warner Village the other day to watch Harry Potter. Feeling peckish after the movie, we decided to have a pizza at the Pizzeria near it.

And this was our pizza.

Pizza at That's Amore

It might not look too bad, but it was cold! The sauce was cold. The toppings were cold. As you could see from the picture, the cheese didn’t even melt. It was like eating baked bread with sauce and toppings right out of the fridge.

The name of the Pizzeria was “Thats Amore” which means love in Italian. Suffice to say, I wasn’t in love.

Rinaz Cry

This is such sacrilege to all pizza. Even Hizza Put does it better!