Trastevere is a lovely area in Rome to visit. It tends to give me a bit of a bohemian vibe – with the narrow, cobblestone streets as well as the distinctive buildings.
But once you are here and hankering for a pizza, a good place to head to is Pizzeria ai Marmi. Also known as the ‘obitorio’ or mortuary among the locals here due to the use of long marble counters, I’ve been here a number of times since living in Rome and so far, I’ve enjoyed each pizza that I’ve had.
It’s highly advisable to come here early for dinner as this place is extremely popular, judging at how quickly the tables are all filled up and from the long queue forming right after, outside.
Inside, the vibe is bustling and lively. It can be rather chaotic as the staff is always busy and on the move and when you sit down, it’s hard to move around as the place is cramped with tables just a few centimetres apart from each other but I think it adds to the charm.
Ai Marmi serves Roman style pizza which is characterised by its thin crust and cooked in a wood oven. Theoretically it should take just a few minutes to cook, but due to the vast amount of customers here, it’s not uncommon to wait for at least 30 minutes for the food to arrive.
Which makes it advisable to get their appetizers while you wait. One of their specialities that I enjoy eating would be their filetti’ di baccala – a deep fried battered cod fillet, which is always deliciously succulent.
There is also the suppli al telefono which is such a cute name. It’s essentially deep fried rice ball with mozzarella cheese in it. When you break it in two and pull them apart, the cheese stretches so much that it could reach your ear and mouth like a telephone.
Personally for me, I’ve always like to sit near the pizza counter as I enjoy watching the pizza makers as they deftly shape and create their pieces of edible masterpieces. It’s fascinating to see.
You might wait a while, but it’s always worth the wait when your pizza arrives as you breathe in the aroma of the freshly made pizza and the warmth wafting to your face.
Here are some of the pizza that I managed to snap during our dine-ins here :
Pizza al funghi (Mozarella and champignon mushrooms)
I don’t remember what this was.
Pizza con tonno (Pizza with tomato sauce and tuna flakes. I got this customized by asking them to add onions for me 🙂
Pizza con rughetta e bresaola (Rocket leaves and cured beef slices)
Pizza con provolone (Pizza with tomato sauce and provolone cheese)
I’ve always enjoyed eating Roman styled pizza and the pizza here is really good. The thing about Roman styled pizza is that the dough is crispy but it should still retains a bit of a soft bite to make it chewy.
Each pizza that I’ve had here was always delicious and the toppings complements and never overwhelms each other.
The cost of the pizza here might be slightly more expensive than a regular pizzeria in Rome but Cart and I don’t usually pay more than 15 euro a person.
Here is a video I made time back :
Pizzeria Ai Marmi
Viale di Trastevere, 53/57,
00153 Rome, Italy